When we think of Visakhapatnam today, it’s a bustling coastal city with a magnetism of its own, but did you know that it was once called the Brighton of India and likened to England’s iconic seaside resort? This intriguing comparison traces back to the British colonial era, a time when Visakhapatnam was gradually transforming from a quaint fishing village into a notable hub on India’s eastern coast. Let’s unravel the layers of history behind this fascinating label.
A City at the Crossroads of Empires
Though Vizag’s origins date back centuries, its modern history took shape under the influence of multiple rulers. The Mughals laid claim to the region in the 16th century, followed by European trading powers vying for dominance. By the late 18th century, the French held sway over the city, only to lose it to the British in 1804 after the Battle of Vizagapatam. Over the years, Visakhapatnam evolved into a district within the Madras Presidency and remained under British rule until India’s independence in 1947.
The Brighton of the East Indies
Fast forward to the mid-1800s, and English visitors arriving in Vizag couldn’t help but draw comparisons to Brighton, a celebrated seaside resort in England. These travelers, stepping off steamers, were greeted by the sight of surf-kissed shores and chunam-painted bungalows, a landscape that felt reminiscent of Brighton’s own coastal charm. Many colonial writings referred to Visakhapatnam, or more specifically its suburb Waltair, as “the Brighton of the East Indies,” or “Brighton of India.”
But why Brighton? The parallel goes beyond beaches. Like Vizag, Brighton began as an ancient fishing village before rising to prominence as a health resort among foreigners in the between the 18th and 20th centuries, attracting visitors seeking rejuvenation. Similarly, Waltair, with its idyllic scenery and moderate climate became a favored retreat for British officers stationed in India. Alongside Puri and Darjeeling, it was recommended as a health resort, offering a breath of fresh air away from the sweltering heat of cities like Madras and Calcutta.
Credits: Regency Society
Historical records provide vivid descriptions of Waltair’s serene beauty and restorative qualities. In Vizagapatam – Volume 1 by W Francis, it is said, “Waltair is pleasant enough, though like many seaside places in the tropics it is relaxing. The station has one great advantage which figures do not exhibit; namely, that it stands 200 feet above the sea, and so gets all the air there is, and that the Dolphin’s Nose headland to the south of it deflects the debilitating long-shore wind and turns it into a sea-breeze.”
Meanwhile, travelogues such as Travel in India by Times Press (1916) highlight Waltair’s aspirations to rival Puri as a holiday destination:
“It has a sloping beach upon which the restless surf beats with ceaseless moaning roar, and here and there clusters of rocks fling the breaking waves high into a tower of spray. At the southern end of the beach rises the steep promontory of the Dolphin’s Nose… Behind the sandy beach the ground climbs to a great height and upon this ridge many European bungalows have been built, each in its own compound of rock gardens and in a position to receive the full benefits of the cool breezes from the Bay of Bengal. Indeed, so bracing are these winds that Waltair has been called the Brighton of India.” Such fame it may hardly yet merit, but there is no reason to doubt that in the future it will approach nearly in popularity and health-giving usefulness to the English ‘Queen of Watering-places’.”
Many European officers initially landed in Waltair in 1883 as part of the East Coast State Railway Comany, which established officers here to facilitate the construction of the Madras-Calcutta railway line. As a result, beachfront bungalows with sprawling gardens (as mentioned above) were built and the spot became a tourist destination. Postcards featured its picturesque beach scenes, travel guides highlighted its hotels and guesthouses, and beachfront bungalows drew visitors arriving in carriages.
By the early 20th century, Waltair had earned a modest reputation as a sanatorium for tuberculosis and a retreat for the colonial elite, as mentioned in A Handbook for Travellers in India, Burma, and Ceylon (1924).
While it’s debatable whether Visakhapatnam, despite being called Brighton of India, ever fully rivaled the latter’s fame, the comparison reflects the colonial nostalgia for familiar landscapes in foreign lands. Today, Visakhapatnam stands tall on its own merit, celebrated for its natural beauty, rich history, and culture. Whether or not it’s the “Brighton of India,” Vizag continues to enchant visitors with its everlasting charm!
Rad also- How Waltair flourished to become Visakhapatnam, the City of Destiny
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