When it comes to temple trails in Srikakulam, Arasavalli Sun Temple and Sri Kurmam are usually the first names that come to mind. But a little over 160 km from Vizag, tucked away in Mukhalingam village of Jalumuru Mandal is another heritage site that deserves equal attention.
Situated on the banks of the Vamsadhara River, Sri Mukhalingam in Srikakulam is a historic Shaivite centre popularly known as Dakshina Kasi. It is home to three prominent temples dedicated to different forms of Lord Shiva: Madhukeshwara, Someswara, and Bhimeswara. Together, these temples reflect the architectural legacy of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. Read on to know more!
Located at the heart of the village, the Madhukeshwara Temple is the largest, oldest, and most elaborate of the three temples, with its origins traced to the late 8th century CE. According to the Sthala Puranam, Lord Shiva manifested in a Madhuka tree to free Gandharvas who had been cursed by Vamadeva Maharshi to be born among the local Sabara community. Having manifested in the tree, the lingam is believed to bear the face of Lord Shiva.
Built in the Kalinga style of architecture, the temple rises to a height of around 65 feet and follows the panchayatana style, with several subsidiary shrines arranged around the main sanctum. These include shrines dedicated to Indreswara, Agniswara and Yameswara, while others house deities including the Saptamatrikas and Kumaraswamy.
Compared to the Madhukeswara Temple complex, the Someswara Temple has a much simpler layout but is surrounded by masterful work created by local artists. Dedicated to Shiva as the Lord of the Moon, the temple features sculptures containing finely carved images of various deities. One of its notable features is the depiction of the river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna near the entrance, symbolising purification before entering the sacred space.
Make sure to visit the gopuram before you exit to witness the architectural structure that makes the temple one of a kind.
The third temple in the trinity is the Bhimeswara Temple, also associated with Aniyanka Bhima of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. Inscriptions found at the site connect the shrine to the region’s medieval rulers.
The modest exterior of this temple is by no means disappointing, as it is known for its distinctive monolithic sculptures. There are statues of Brahma, Dakshinamurthy and Narasimha on the outer walls, facing north, south and west, respectively. Among these, the depiction of Dakshinamurthy is noteworthy where Shiva, in his role as the supreme teacher, is represented as a source of divine wisdom and knowledge.
While the better-known temples of Srikakulam continue to draw visitors, Sri Mukhalingam stands as one of the district’s most fascinating heritage landmarks. The temple is well worth the drive and is best explored at an unhurried pace, offering a spiritual experience while opening a window into the legacy of the Eastern Ganga dynasty. The intricately carved walls bear ancient Telugu inscriptions, while the temple art tells its own stories through carvings, revealing much to those who take a closer look at the mythology.
Also read: Bhavani Island: A Weekend Getaway From Vizag Worth Taking
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